Migration Conflicts Fuel the Rise of the Italian Right

On a quiet Saturday in February 2018, 28-year-old Luca Traini stepped out of his car in the central Italian town of Macerata and climbed the steps of a Mussolini-era war memorial. The former political...


Sound City

Its passion for music, and nurturing of some of the world’s most renowned composers, helped Bologna become a UNESCO City of Music. This city sings: walk down a single porticoed street, and you...


Where Gay (and other open-hearted) Travelers are Welcome

Bologna’s long tradition of accepting marginalized people has led to a thriving LGBT community As the epicenter of LGBT activism in Italy, Bologna is a great travel destination — not just...


The Happiest Hour

Hundreds of Bolognese enjoy apertivo hour on Via Zamboni, in the city’s university district. Photo by Olivia Whelan Join the Bolognese for “aperitivo”  — a very Italian way to...